Monday, September 20, 2010

Cheers from Edinburgh



When I walked through Edinburgh for the first time, I was inevitably serenaded with bagpipes. But these weren't bagpipes played by any old man in a kilt (although there are plenty of those too), but by a rock band. As if this wasn't paradoxical enough, I found myself bobbing along to the music like I would at any other show. How did one of the world's most cringe worthy instruments turn into something not only publicly acceptable, but cool?
Because I'm in Scotland of course, the birthplace of the bagpipe. When a cultural staple is put in its own environment it goes from garish to glorious and ceases to be just a quirky piece of culture, but a symbol. Edinburgh, like the bagpipe, may not be pretty in the traditional sense, but once you see past its off kilter nature or come to love it, you realize a hidden beauty. If you're on the right streets or hearing the right notes, what once seemed worn down, now looks well worn, like a city that's broken in for you already.


However I'm having no problem falling in love with this city. Edinburgh has been through a lot: black plagues, monarchy shifts, Sean Connery. Basically it’s a city covered in history, literally since some of the dirt is still on the buildings (during the Industrial Revolution, Edinburgh earned the nickname “Auld Reekie” or old smoky). This is a place that has been lived in, even though today the castle makes a nice backdrop for the weekend farmer's market and not a fortress against invasion. That's the awesome (in all true sense of the word) thing about Scotland, you cannot even go to the pub without getting some story, sinister or sensational, with your stout. Sometimes the pub itself is the story, like the Last Drop Pub where they used to execute people back in the day, but today makes for a low key place to enjoy your cider on a Saturday night like I did.


And if everyone stone you step on doesn't have a story then someone will write one about it. This city is wallpapered in words figuratively speaking. With monuments to poets, not presidents you can see who Edinburgh really values. Whether its reading up on Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, or Robert Louis Stevenson at the charming little Writer's Museum or stopping in one of the many secondhand bookshops, this is the ideal place to get lost in a fictional world. Finally a city and a university that not only appreciates my English literature degree, but raves about it.
Of course there's plenty of pubs to drink at, museums to wander through, societies to join, people to meet, and stores to avoid if I don't want to go broke still. However after only a week, I can tell I am meant to be in this city and that study abroad will be one of the highlights of my twenties.

5 comments:

  1. This is a great idea Tess :) It reminds me of Hogwarts sooo much lol, and then I saw your little blurb about waiting for your Hogwarts letter. I love us Potterheads :P

    I will keep it hush hush for now, but really, a travel blog! Really cool :)

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  2. Lovely entry! Isn't it amazing to be in a country and city that values what you value? Florence was like Disneyland for the art history nerd, and within being there for a week I already felt like you - at home. Take lots of pictures, try lots of weird food, go on lots of adventures, and send me a post card!!!

    missing you from the states already

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  3. Tess I'm so glad you're already in love with Edinburgh! I love bagpipes. It must be so nice to hear them on the streets. I get accordion music here which is also totally ok with me. It sounds awesome though, except for the whole "idolizing intellectuals" thing.

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  4. Oh man, jealous! You're going to have the time of your life -- or at least one of the times of your life. I bet the weather is actually pretty good right now -- although to be honest I don't remember it being that awful when I was there, but I suppose the rain was just snow, since it was January/February. Anyway, expect an email shortly. For now, go have some tea for me. I'm SO freaking wishing I were in Europe right now.

    xo

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  5. I love that you describe the city as "broken in" -- I can't think of any cities in the US that are truly broken in. At least none that I've ever been to.

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